Showing posts with label jewish food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jewish food. Show all posts

A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking Review

A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking
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A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking ReviewI was aware that this volume was coming. In fact, I've known about it for almost a year, and based on Ms. Goldman's other recipes which I'd tried from her website, Baker Boulanger, I have looked forward to it. From the cover design, which screams for you to pick it up, right down to the Source Guide (where to buy equipment, tools and ingredients) included at the end, this book is a winner.
What makes A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking so special? Recipes alone are important, but when you read the introduction, you not only learn what distinguishes Jewish baking from all others, why the author set out to put this collection together, and an extensive section on kashruth and the ingredients that play a part. Many authors grind out cookbooks at amazing speed, making it likely that something will be lost, and that "something" is usually the way a dish is fine-tuned to spectacular perfection.
The recipes in this cookbook were created, tweaked and honed; they were tasted and refined; then they were taste-tested by others; and finally, they were kitchen-tested by a host of volunteers. Their names occupy four pages. Quality shows.
The book is organized by Jewish holiday: Shabbat, Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur (as in breaking fast), Sukkot, Chanukah, Purim, Passover and Shavuot. In addition, there is a sizeable chapter on all manner of bread baking, with lots of important and often innovative information about equipment and techniques, plus lots of recipes.
One of the things I especially appreciated was the way Ms. Goldman presented challot. For sure, most of us are aware that we bake one kind of challah for Shabbat, another for Rosh Hashanah, etc. While challah is a centerpiece of Jewish cuisine, we have variations for different occasions. Sometimes it's sweeter, such as for Rosh Hashanah, where we celebrate by presenting foods that will usher in the sweetness of the new year. Our Rosh Hashanah challah also takes on a different physical appearance, being wound into a turban shape to symbolize the continuity of life. Rather than lump all the challot into one place, the author introduces the basics of making challah in the first chapter, and intersperses special holiday recipes in the chapters which follow.
I consider myself a fair bread baker, but I was intrigued by the section on breads. While I expected to read material already familiar to me, I was mesmerized by new methods and techniques, and I found myself becoming anxious to get to the kitchen to try them out.
A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking is packed with information, some about the individual recipes and some which tie Jewish foods to religion and culture. Many recipes are accompanied by variations which often appear to create something completely different, all by changing one or two ingredients. The only (and I do mean only) thing I found disappointing about this book was the lack of color photos. Perhaps when this winner goes to a second edition, the publisher will include some.
As I said, I couldn't wait to start trying out some recipes, but there was a problem. With everything looking so wonderful, how could I possibly decide which to make first? And what would happen when I had all this delicious food around the house---much as I'd love to live the "sweet" life, reality dictates that I exercise a modicum of control. I was in luck because timing was on my side. My synagogue choir was in overdrive to prepare for the upcoming holidays, so I had a willing, if not eager, audience for my testing.
I began with "The Titanic Cafe's Chocolate Chestnut Torte." Light, luscious, delicate, chocolatey, decadent...and flourless. While the recipe calls for a chocolate ganache glaze, Ms. Goldman comments that she prefers this with a dusting of cocoa, which is the way I did it. (It should also be noted that there is a special Passover version of this recipe in the book. )
There is little more to say, except that it was immediately popular with choir. As I listened to the sounds of culinary ecstasy, I began to feel that if I continued to provide such treats, attendance would remain high. I'm not sure if the torte had anything to do with it, but there were twice as many people at the second rehearsal.
For the second rehearsal, I chose a recipe called "My Mother's Fancy Apple Cake." A cookie-type crust encases lots of apple slices which are baked till soft, then a custard mixture is pour over this and it continues to bake. Now, I have to admit that I violated my first rule of cooking...I didn't read the whole recipe before I started. Actually, I read most of the recipe, but missed the last line which indicates that it should be refrigerated at least 4 hours to set properly.
So there I was, a half hour before rehearsal, trying to decide what to do. Do I take it or leave it? I couldn't help myself. It smelled so good, I figured it might set somewhat by the time we had our break. It did, but I'm sure refrigeration would have made a significant improvement. Of course, the aroma from the back seat of the car on the way to rehearsal was almost too much to bear.
When I started slicing it at the break in rehearsal, I was worried it would be swimming on the plates, and while it was a bit more liquidy than I would have liked, it was superb in taste. More oohs and ahhhs, and several marriage proposals later, people were lining up, hoping for seconds.
I never revealed the error to my adoring public, but I made this cake again, the way the author had intended, and it was, as I suspected, even more delicious.
Other recipes of note: "Almost-Nettie's Cinnamon Meringue-Walnut Babka," "Miami Beach Coffee Cake," "Shredded Dough Plum Tart," and "My Trademark, Most Requested, Absolutely Magnificent Caramel Matzoh Crunch." In the case of the matzoh crunch, you should be aware that, with only four ingredients, it will take you longer to read the short recipe than to make it.
I'll admit, I'm not a fan of the way matzoh is often "used and abused" in the name of the holiday. Too often, we are left with a variation of a year-round dish that pales miserably in comparison to its former version. With this in mind, I was tempted to wait till Passover to make the Matzoh Crunch, but the title, the ease of preparation, and frankly, Ms. Goldman's reputation, spurred me to try it. All I can say is, "Wow!" You know there's matzoh there, but you don't feel as if you're eating a second-rate adaptation. I daresay, I can't think of a better way to make this.
Finally, I had occasion to feed my writers' group. It was the least I could do in exchange for their comments and criticisms regarding this review before it was published. For this group, I prepared the "Majestic and Moist New Year's Honey Cake." It was the ultimate proof that, while honey cake is traditionally Jewish fare, you don't have to be Jewish to love it.
As I look to the heavens for the tell-tale lightning bolt, I must confess that until I tried this recipe, I would never have conceived that there could be a honey cake better than my beloved grandmother's. I'll go one step further. If she were alive today, I'm sure my grandmother would rip up her own recipe and keep this cookbook handy.
The cake is unbelievably moist, full-bodied in flavor, with a perfect texture that begs to be eaten slowly and savored in tiny bites so as to make the experience last as long as possible. And even then, you gaze longingly at the uncut portion, hoping someone will offer you seconds while you mentally gauge a way to cut down on caloric intake the rest of the week to compensate for such culinary decadence. How many times have I heard someone say, "I can cook, but I'm no baker?" Great news, then. On page 32, you'll find a long list just for you. It's called, "Winning Recipes for the Bakery-Challenged." There is even a splendid recipe for challah which you can start in your bread machine. To say this was easy to make is an understatement. I love the challah recipe that's been on my website forever, but Ms. Goldman's recipe is denser and sweeter. If you have any leftover bread, use it to make memorable sandwiches.
A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking could easily make the term "baking-challenged" obsolete.A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking Overview

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Kosher for Everybody: The Complete Guide to Understanding, Shopping, Cooking, and Eating the Kosher Way (Arthur Kurzweil Book) Review

Kosher for Everybody: The Complete Guide to Understanding, Shopping, Cooking, and Eating the Kosher Way (Arthur Kurzweil Book)
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Kosher for Everybody: The Complete Guide to Understanding, Shopping, Cooking, and Eating the Kosher Way (Arthur Kurzweil Book) ReviewI am researching becoming kosher at home, and have bought several books from Amazon. This one is not very useful for either a beginner or someone who wants a refresher course.
There is a bit of history of Jews in America, a description of kosher slaughtering procedures and koshering meat at home, but not step-by-step for the latter. The book is padded with a LOT of detail (pages and pages) concerning restaurants and food companies and whether or not some of their individual products are kosher. This information becomes out of date almost immediately, and simple referral to companies' websites or other online kosher resources would be much more current and practical. There is little information on how to modify or renew one's kitchen, utensils, or dining supplies. There is little discussion of differences among Orthodox, Conservative, or Reform Judaism on this topic. There is proportionally a lot of discussion of health benefits to keeping kosher, and a bit on vegetarianism, but little encouragement for the faith-based or cultural incentives to keeping kosher. There are next to no suggestions on grocery shopping,food storage, or menu planning. There is a nice little recipe section in the back and I tore out two or three of them before I disposed of the book, but there are many kosher cookbooks out there that are more comprehensive and helpful, and for 3 recipes (none of which are unique) this book isn't worth the time, or home bookshelf space.Kosher for Everybody: The Complete Guide to Understanding, Shopping, Cooking, and Eating the Kosher Way (Arthur Kurzweil Book) Overview

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Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Authentic Jewish Rye and Other Breads Review

Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Authentic Jewish Rye and Other Breads
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Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Authentic Jewish Rye and Other Breads ReviewAt first glance there isn't much to grab your attention in this book. No glossy colour pictures (in a cookbook, unbelievable) and the recipes look basic (a little yeast, a little water, a little flour...). But you REALLY have to read this book. The details, the tips, the tricks of the trade and the methods that Greenstein explains really do make a difference!
Greenstein has converted the recipes to be made by hand, food processor or mixer. We have a small mixer and simply halved the quantities. I cannot stress enough the surprise at how effective the results were. There was huge "WOW" factor getting the bread out of the oven.
This book has a good range of recipes for breads and things made with yeast. There is an assortment of ethnic recipes and all the favourites from bagels, foccacia, croissants, to scones and muffins. I particularly enjoyed his annecdotes and favourite toppings. Greenstein has also included 12 programmes for "a morning of baking" which set out how to fit together making a variety of breads in a short time.
On the downside, a separate ingredients index would have been useful. For example, after buying rice flour I then had to look through the whole book to find the relevant recipe. The fact that it is so short on pictures is not really a problem as the results speak for themselves.
Please God, when I die let me be Jewish!Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Authentic Jewish Rye and Other Breads Overview

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Joan Nathan's Jewish Holiday Cookbook Review

Joan Nathan's Jewish Holiday Cookbook
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Joan Nathan's Jewish Holiday Cookbook Review`Joan Nathan's Jewish Holiday Cookbook' by the `Paula Wolfert' of Jewish cooking, Joan Nathan, is an updated composite of two of her earlier books, `The Jewish Holiday Baker' and `The Jewish Holiday Kitchen' on the 25th anniversary of the publication of the latter volume.
I have reviewed only one other book of Jewish cooking, the big `New York Times' book of Jewish recipes and I can unequivocally say that as a first book on Jewish cooking, Nathan's book is a far, far superior starting point. The only reason you may want to buy the `New York Times' volume is if you are already so thoroughly knowledgeable about Jewish cuisine that all you want is a big book of good recipes.
I get the sense from this book that the fact that it deals only with `holiday' cooking does very little to limit the scope of the recipes, as it not only deals with the yearly holidays but also that cooking which is particular to the restrictions on observing the Sabbath.
I think it is no accident that in my survey of cookbooks so far, there are far more Jewish holiday cookbooks than there are for any other ethnic cuisine, as long as you don't count Christmas cookie cookbooks. In my somewhat limited experience with only English language cookbooks, I know of seven for Jewish holidays and only two for that great culinary dynamo, Italian cooking. And, Joan Nathan has written four of those titles!
Not only on holidays but also throughout their whole life, food and religion are more tightly intertwined for the Jews than with any other culture I know. The Christian use of unleavened bread and wine in their most important sacrament pales in comparison to the strictures of orthodox kashrut, the laws governing kosher, parve, and unclean foods and food combinations. I know the Muslims, being fellow Semites from the Middle Eastern deserts have similar strictures against pork, but I believe their rules are not nearly as pervasive.
The book provides seven (7) chapters on the major holidays, Rosh Hashanah, Sukkot, Hanukkah, Purim, Passover, and Shavuot plus a chapter on `The Minor Holidays' including Israeli Independence Day. The first and longest chapter covers the Sabbath which, in orthodox tradition, requires prohibits any cooking between sundown on Friday evening and sundown on Saturday evening. It's a bit more involved than that, in that what is really prohibited is lighting a flame during that time. That means stoves or ovens can be turned on before sundown to start slow cooking dishes, but no flame can be started in that 24-hour period.
For people who are simply interested in culinary folkways, the book is an excellent study in the intersection of culinary laws and the seasons. Not only were Jewish folk constrained by extreme poverty and the barrenness of winter, they were prohibited from access to the single most tasty and most easily preserved source of fat and protein, the pig. This was an even bigger hardship for the Jews of central Europe who lived outside the range of cheap olive oil, since it forbade them from using the very best animal fat for cooking. Even butter was proscribed in that one could not use butter together with any meat product, due to the kashrut prohibition against mixing meat and dairy. This more than explains the central role of chicken fat in the culinary traditions of Jewish cooks.
Ms. Nathan does not spend much time exploring the anthropological sources of kashrut, but she does an excellent job of showing us how it affected Jewish cuisine.
Not only does she give us dishes appropriate to the various holidays, we are also treated to menus which reflect differences in the Sephardic (Iberian) and Askanazy (Central European) traditions.
I find it eminently satisfying that the very first recipe is for challah bread, the braided egg bread typically made for Sabbath. I also find it very interesting that much more attention is paid to recipes for the American bialys than to the European bagel. I am also interested in the fact that Hanukkah is much more of a culinary and political holiday than it is a religious feast, since, according to an Orthodox Jewish friend, there are not even any standard rituals for the Synagogue for Hanukkah. This is hearsay, but Nathan does confirm that until the late Middle Ages, Hanukkah was a relatively unimportant date on the Jewish calendar.
I have yet to review some other Jewish holiday cookbooks, but for a good understanding of the traditions behind the culinary facts, this book is excellent.
Highly recommended.Joan Nathan's Jewish Holiday Cookbook Overview

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Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking: Yiddish Recipes Revisited Review

Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking: Yiddish Recipes Revisited
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Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking: Yiddish Recipes Revisited ReviewThe fact that the author is the foodmaven.com comes across clearly, since he adds so much rich information on Jewish food history with each recipe. It is a pleasure to read. And then there are the photos. As he writes in the intro, food is a connection to the Jewish past and our faith. Sure, more Jews eat pizza than chopped liver, more eat sushi and salad nicoise than chopped herring and gefilte fish, but those classic foods are in our Jungian collective unconscious. And now for the recipes.
Appetizers (Forshpeiz) include recipes for arbes, chopped eggs and onions, chopped herring salad, schmaltz, black radish (ritach, as in ritach mit tzibeleh), vegetarian chopped liver (2 recipes), romanian eggplant salad, 2nd Avenue Deli's health salad/slaw, pitcha, chrain, and gefilte fish (mit carrots).
Some SOUPS are Chicken w/ knaidlach, kreplach, mushroom barley (did u know that mushrooms were free and plentiful in the woods of Lithuania), borscht (3 kinds), and Schav. Some SIDES include three, count 'em, 3 kugels, latkes, shlishkas, kishkas, dermas, tzimmes, and cabbage and noodles (u know.. that mouse in rataouille should have made cabbage and noodles for the critic) (hint... salt the cabbage first)
Some MEATS are cholent, flanken, brisket, stuffed cabbage, potted meatballs, (a history of romanian steakhouses; an essay on why Jews like chinese), karnatzlach (little sausage), salami and eggs, chow mein, and pepper steak. Not to mix meat and milk in the same paragraph, but some DAIRY recipes included are: Ratner's brown gravy, blintzes, lox fliegles, pickled lox; lox,eggs & onions; and whitefish salad.
There is a whole chapter for passover dishes, including an apple cake and matzo buttercrunch and ingberlach (matzo farfal ginger candy).
Speaking of Passover, some BREAD recipes include one for tzibeleh kuchen. Did you know that Jewish corn bread is actually a sourdough ryte? DESSERT recipes include rugelach (kipfel), babka, and hamantaschen.Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking: Yiddish Recipes Revisited Overview

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Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Recipes for 125 Breads from Around the World Review

Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Recipes for 125 Breads from Around the World
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Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Recipes for 125 Breads from Around the World ReviewThe point of "Secrets of a Jewish Baker" is not just to provide you with recipes, but rather to help you create professional-quality loaves in your own kitchens. If you find you have difficulty making a truly light and airy loaf of bread, a whole-grain loaf that's tasty as well as nutritious, or a crusty loaf like your favorite baker's, you won't have any trouble with these tasks by the time you've made a few recipes from this book.
The book opens with wonderful notes on basic materials you'll need (as well as optional ones), ingredients, special bakers' techniques, handy tricks and tips to make things easier on yourself, and even a trouble-shooting section to help you figure out what might have gone wrong with a loaf of bread and how to fix it. Usually such sections teach me nothing new; here I definitely learned things.
As for the recipes, they come out nothing short of stunning. The cheese bread disappeared so fast you'd think it had been a figment of our imaginations. Most surprisingly for me, the cracked wheat bread and bran bread disappeared just as quickly-I think of bran as tasteless and unappealing, but these healthy breads were moist, tender, and delicious. The coffee cake made a yummy (if rather sinful) breakfast, as did the peach streusel muffins. The techniques for creating great crusts worked like magic, particularly on the Irish raisin bread, which was similarly delightful.
The book includes a handful of morning "programs" of baking that interleave instructions for several recipes at once, enabling you to easily make a week's worth of bread in one morning. This worked beautifully for us. The recipes also include variations designed for the food processor and the six-quart stand mixer, with different ratios of ingredients to take advantage of those items' form-factors; thus you can easily adapt the recipes to the equipment you have on hand. My only warning is that the stand mixer recipes seem sized to the new, heaviest-duty six-quart stand mixers, so be sure to double-check your mixer's rating for how many cups of flour it can tolerate. (You can always use his basic recipe amounts in your stand mixer if it won't tolerate the higher-quantity mixer variations.)
This is a stunning bread cookbook, particularly for anyone who wants to make professional-quality breads in their home kitchen, or who wants recipes for healthy, whole-grain breads that taste amazing!Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Recipes for 125 Breads from Around the World Overview

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In My Father's Bakery Review

In My Father's Bakery
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In My Father's Bakery ReviewI recently finished this wonderful book and it is sitting by my wife's bedside waiting for her to get to it. Each of the stories has a plot of sorts and they are simply told and arranged with great skill. They are basically stories about the characters that inhabited the author's youth and the Bronx bakery owned by his family. The stories concern the family and employees who worked in the bakery, the customers, suppliers and locals whom the author observed while doing his homework in the bakery's back room. Through these characters, the author has successfully made the bakery itself and the life that swirled around it into a living "character."
On the most basic level, the book will have a nostalgic appeal to New Yorkers who grew up in similar neighborhoods during the later 1930s and 1940s. To the nostalgic reader of today this book will recapture what they recall to have been a quieter and more innocent time, but, the high level of the story telling insures that other readers will appreciate the internal and external struggles that the characters lived through during times of depression and war. The book is graceful, often poignant, and good humored throughout, and for about a week it sent me off to slumberland with a satisfied smile on my face.In My Father's Bakery Overview

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